Defaix refers to himself as “Le Dernier des Mohicans”—the “Last of the Mohicans”—a reference to his status as virtually the sole remaining member of the Chablis old guard who still holds back vintages for a number of years before releasing. Nobody else is crazy enough to age their top Premier Cru Chablis in a steel tank for over a decade before bottling it, but once you taste his Vaillon Premier Cru, you’ll see exactly why he does it.