The 2023 Riesling Forster Ungeheuer Grosses Gewächs simultaneously offers the smokiness of an extinguished candle and utter creaminess, clothing ripe Mirabelle in gentle woodsmoke. The palate is concentrated and has full smokiness, but it’s bedded on juicy, fresh plum. Rounded and smooth, it’s still subdued for now but boasts a gorgeous streak of passion fruit freshness. (Bone-dry)