An enticing waft of fragrant spices draws you into the glass, where ripe and juicy black cherry and currant fruit is underscored by a clean swathe of underlying salinity. Details of pickled ginger, crystallized honey, biscuit and white blossoms expand nicely on the plush mousse, which is raw silk–like in feel. This is rich and expressive, with good depth, yet its chiseled acidity provides fine definition throughout. Mouthwatering finish. Disgorged February 2025. Drink now through 2035. (AN)

The NV PN-TX20 is a powerful, tightly wound wine. All the drive of Pinot comes through in this decidedly virile Champagne. As with all the wines in this new series from Bollinger, the NV PN-TX20 is built around a base wine, in this case 2020 Pinot Noir from Tauxières, with 50% reserve wines, half of them from Bollinger's extensive library of reserve wines aged in magnum. This is an especially vinous Champagne, one that needs at least a year or two in bottle to unwind. The year was characterized by a relatively short cycle of just 87 days from flowering to a harvest that began on August 25. Dosage is 8 grams per liter. Disgorged: January, 2025. 93+ (AG)