Cedric Mousse's argument that Pinot Meunier deserves to be taken seriously, in rose form. Eugene Rose is 82% Meunier and 18% Pinot Noir from forty-year-old vines in Cuisles, Jonquery and Chatillon-sur-Marne, farmed organically on the green clay, sand and limestone of the Vallee de la Marne; the color and much of the depth come from a slice of still red wine — about 12% of the blend, still Meunier from the domaine's own vines — folded into the base. Half the wine is drawn from the family's perpetual reserve, a running solera built since 2003, which is what gives a non-vintage rose this much dried-fruit complexity. It rests 18 months on the lees and is finished at 2.5 grams per liter of dosage, effectively bone dry. The Mousse family lost their winery to a fire this past summer — everyone is safe, and the vineyards, the knowledge and the spirit that make these wines all remain. If there was ever a time to open a bottle of Mousse with people you love, this is it.